New Phone Number Notice: Once we are in the Bahamas, this will be our new Satellite phone number: 254-204-4282. For anyone calling us, this is actually a long distance call to Texas. We will try to keep the phone on between 5 and 7 in the evenings. If you need to get in touch with us, try calling at this time or leave a message with a good time to call you back. We have a limited number of minutes allowed per month so try to keep conversations brief. As a reminder, our e-mail address is: willowpond@chris-div.com for Chris and divya@chris-div.com for Divya. We will be getting our e-mail once or twice a week and responding to it usually within a few days of receiving it.
The First Leg of Our Trip: St. Mary’s, Georgia to Fort Lauderdale, Florida
After a week and a half of cleaning, repairing, painting and endless shopping we think we are ready to have the boat launched. We have so many lists we need a list of our lists to keep track of all our lists. We are about to give up having a car, a Walmart, a hardware store, and a big supermarket for six months. Many items cost 1-1/2 to 2 times as much in the Bahamas so we have tried to pack as much toilet paper, soap, shampoo, toothpaste plastic bags, evaporated milk, canned food, cheerios, beer, wine and water on our boat as we possibly can. We had a final shopping about twenty times and are still having them down here in Fort Lauderdale. Our friend Roger who manages the boatyard and his wife, Terry were wonderful sources of support and general human friendliness during this week of continual preparation. So, we finally left our car in St Mary’s, launched our boat, and headed off on Thursday, November 6.
On our first day, Divya’s brother Billy and his wife Gail met us at an abandoned restaurant dock for final farewells. Much of the trip down the Intercoastal Waterway involved motoring but we did get in some great sailing on wider expanses of the waterway. Compared to our trip up the waterway a year and a half ago during which we were mortified by the amount of development and stupefied by the oppressive heat, this trip was much more enjoyable. Earlier this year, after much planning and head scratching we found a used Genoa sail that looked like it would work well on our boat, which sailed notoriously slow with the original sails that came with it. The bigger sail made the trip down the Intercoastal much more enjoyable since it is easy to pull out or retrieve whenever the winds warrant it.
The last day of our journey to Fort Lauderdale we took the boat out into the ocean with 20-25 knot winds pushing us south. We got our first hints of seasickness, but the boat handled well and we appreciated the heavy and well-built nature of the boat in these conditions.
Arriving in Ft Lauderdale was a shocking experience for us. The cruising guides all talked about free anchorages and welcoming marinas but when we got here one anchorage had been closed and there was absolutely no space at any of the marinas. On top of that, many of the marinas charged over $100 per night. Just before dark we were directed to a second anchorage where it was dubious whether one could stay there for more than twenty-four hours. We began to see our budget evaporating in unexpected marina fees. However, fortune intervened and saved us. The city of Ft Lauderdale maintains and rents 5 moorings across from one of its municipal marinas. And on a whim we called the marina the morning after we got here and they informed us that one of the moorings was available. We never left an anchorage as quickly as we did that morning to scamper over to our new mooring before anybody else might have snatched it up.
We’ve been on our new mooring for almost a week now doing our final provisioning and making last minute repairs. We are waiting for a southerly wind to cross over to the Bahamas and will probably leave for the Bahamas within the next week. We’ve been enjoying taking buses, walking, and swimming at the Fort Lauderdale beach which is only a short dinghy ride and ten minute walk from our boat. The only negative experience we have had since we’ve been here was several days ago when the Coast Guard pulled up to our boat and after sounding very nice and informing us that we’d done nothing wrong, said they intended to search the boat without us being in it. Unfortunately the boat was a mess because we were in the middle of stocking it with provisions and five or six simultaneous repair projects were in progress. Although the official who was searching the boat was only down below for five or ten minutes, the feeling of having a stranger poke through your things unnerved us for several hours. We managed to “re-nerve” ourselves over a glass of wine or two and have pretty much recuperated at this point in time.
Ft Lauderdale itself is an eye-opening experience. Off of the waterway are hundreds of canals, many of which are lined with multi-million dollar homes and large to very large yachts parked in front of them. I don’t think either of us has ever seen so much personal wealth displayed in one place. Glancing at the little signs in real estate windows, it seems the entry-level price for a skuzzy little ranch house here is about $350,000 and most homes are well over a million. The harbor is filled with mega-yachts, which make our 33-ft sailboat (which normally we are slightly ashamed to own) seem like the humblest craft here. In contrast to all this wealth, in the shadows at night we see homeless people going to sleep under bridges in these same neighborhoods. The beachfront near us seems geared toward the college crowd who seem to continually show up in spite of the fact that it’s not spring break. However, the beach itself is a great equalizer. Once you put your towel on the beach, all residents seem to have equal status and the water is warm and the waves are exhilarating.
One of our dharma friends, Ruth Silberman, passed away last week and we are holding her in our hearts.
Our thanks to Ellery, who will have installed these writings and our photos on the web-site.
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